Kitten care guide | Savannah Canada

Savannah Canada - Care Guide - Thank you for adopting one of our kitties!

This small guide is intended to accompany you during your visits to the veterinarian and to remind you of what treatments your cat has received. Please note that under no circumstances will Savannah Canada claim to be a veterinarian.

Our Vet
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Sooke Veterinary Hospital, Accredited AAHA
6520 Sooke road, Sooke BC
Tel: (250) 642-4413

  • 1) DEWORMER

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    a) Your kitten has been dewormed regularly every 4 weeks for the first 16weeks.

    b) We strongly suggest to continue every 3 months (discuss with your veterinarian).

    c) We use the Profender by Bayer. Very easy to use: a single application une simple application at the level of the neck. It is also possible to use Milbemax, Safeguard or Fenbendazol. These are all wide-spectrum dewormers that a veterinarian must prescribe.

    d) At each annual visit, I ask for dewormer for the whole year and I administer every 3 months. It is important to read the storage labels (i.e. temperature and keep away from the sun).

  • 2) FLEAS

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    On Vancouver Island, we have flea problems due to our humid and temperate climate. We make sure our cats are treated to prevent a flea infestation.

    If in your area you also have a flea problem, you want to take Advantage from your veterinarian. This is a pre-dosed applicator. Apply some drops on the neck and you're done.

  • 3) STERILIZATION

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    a) Females and adult males will not mark their territory, but adult servals and savannahs may still have incidents due to several reasons. Unsterilized females will begin to mark their territory when they reach sexual maturity.

    b) It should be noted that non-sterile serval males may mark their territory up to 30 times per day.

    c) Some odors may help them to mark their territory, especially new smells. It is therefore important that you keep an eye out when your cat is too interested in something. Sometimes you even have to accept some modifications like an entrance mat or hide the guests' coats in a place where your cat does not have access.

  • 4) LITTER

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    a) Your little kitten has been used to using a litter box. At home, they were using a rubbermaid box and wood pellet. It is an ecological, practical and very economical solution. As the choice of litter is a personal choice, we suggest you start with the wood pellets and mix with your favorite brand to accustom your kitten to his new toilet.

    b) To make it easier for your new kitten, we suggest you install litter boxes in several places in the house and at least one per floor at the beginning.

    c) Make sure the litter box is large enough for your cat to grow and generally the servals and early generations of savannah do not like the covered litter boxes.

  • 5) GROOMING

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    a) Savannahs or servals do not have a great need for grooming. As they have big ears, one must watch them and remove the dirt with a cotton swab.

    b) It is also important to cut their claws regularly and brushing their teeth is very important both for hygiene reasons and to get used to being familiar with manipulations. For servals and first generations of savannahs, it is very important to start as soon as possible. We will bring your kitten a few times to the vet and we will take care of clipping claws regularly, but it is extremely important to continue to touch his paws and examine the mouth. The best times for this kind of practice are when your kitten is very relaxed and even asleep.

    c) Accustom your kitten to a bath from an early age is very good too. Make sure you have everything you need at hand: a towel, a bowl for water and any cat shampoo. To begin, put the water at a temperature slightly higher than the room temperature. Then, with a bowl, you can start rinsing from behind the ears to the tail. Be careful when you get to the face. A simple wet washcloth should do. Your kitten may hate baths if you send water directly to her face or ears.

    d) If the little one has a substance like duct tape or glue on it, you simply remove it with a fatty substance, ie. margarine or butter, and a normal bath. It will be a bit greasy for a few days, but at least he can lick without danger.

  • 6) INTRODUCING A NEW KITTEN

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    a) Accompanying your kitten, you will have a transport cage, a toy and a small blanket so that your newcomer is comforted by the familiar smell of the house where he grew up. Often kittens cry the first nights. They are missing their environment, their mother, their brothers and sisters. They like little hot water bottles to comfort them.

    b) You can walk him with you talk to him, reassure him. They like when humans lie close to them to play and offer treats. It is important to spend as much time as possible with your little baby, especially for the firsts days.

    c) For a start, your baby must be separated from other pets in the house, in a room or even in the bathroom. The first weeks are very stressful for your kitten and he will be very exhausted by the move. All this fatigue brings a small decrease of the immune system and will become more vulnerable to ambient microbes.

    d) It is also much easier to get used to its new litter box and its bowl of water, to isolate it. I advise you to feed him and stay close to him so that he associates you and connects more quickly with you.

    e) As soon as you see that he starts to recover, you can bring it to the main rooms of the house. Always accompanied by you. If you have other animals, start by bringing it in its small transport cage. This will give other animals the chance to know their own smell and themselves to know that of others without feeling too intimidated by them. Then you can do the opposite and bring your animals to his room or room. Then give him some time in the house to smell everywhere and to know the places without the other animals to start. Remember, you can always count on me if you have any questions.

  • 7) TRAINING

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    a) All normal cats will try to climb the hierarchy of the house. They will push the limits and rules of the house to do their own best. If they can move on the counter, they will inevitably steal food from you on your plate. You must be ready for the test!

    a) continued For the moment, he is very good with all the rules, he can be good for several weeks, or even several months, but inevitably, one day, the teenager in him will challenge you. When they reach between seven (7) and ten (10) months, they strike a period like adolescence and seem to be at their worst moment. Be ready for this period. The secret of success is to be very consistent. i.e.: if you do not want him to walk on the counter, never let him go up. If you leave it once, he will always try to return.

    b) Another problem for many is to play fiercely. Let it chase your feet and bite them under the blankets, it's really funny when they're small, but when the cat's weight is over 25 lbs (11 kg) and it has great jaw strength it's a lot less funny. You will have to be firm, no matter how cute he is. If you have to discipline your kitten, there are several methods available depending on the situation.

    c) It is very important to reward good attitudes as soon as your kitten does what you asked. Ex: sit when it's time for meals, come when you call, sit well in car etc...

    d) When your kitten makes mistakes, a good way to correct it is to take the skin of the neck. It is painless and it is the method that cat moms do. With the first generations and the servals, it is good to push them down on the floor, the couch, no matter the surface. This demonstrates domination and requires respect on one's part. The more your cat grows, the more weight your body will need to hold it until it is still and accepts that you are the boss. He will have to understand that what he has just done is not good.

    e) NEVER LEAVE a savannah or a Serval lift the paw in front of you leaves to do the same thing until it goes down in sphynx position to leave you the last word.

    f) You can use a water spray bottle. This is recommended since it is considered "anonymous". The problem is often that they have no problem getting wet ...

  • 8) PUNISHMENT TIMES AND OTHER CORRECTION TECHNIQUES

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    a) When your baby is too upset and not listening, especially at mealtimes, you can put him in his cage or in the bathroom. Anywhere he cannot see you for about 10 to 15 minutes and give him a chance to recover. If it fails, try again maybe longer. This is a very effective technique when your baby will play too hard.

    b) The redirection will be very effective when your kitten plays too abruptly or when it nibbles. Give him another option, a toy that he can chew instead of your feet or pants, etc. If he does not want to play with his toy, I recommend the time of punishment. Game is over!

    c) We use products purchased from the veterinarian for places where they could mark their territory or make their claws. These are pheromones. We use the Feliway "plugin" and spray. No matter where the smell is, they will not be prone to scratch or mark their territory.

    Ideas are not lacking. If you have problems with one of our babies, do not hesitate to contact us. We do not want you to let your baby behave badly with which to grow. You are the BOSS! You are taller or taller than him and he must respect you.

    d) They are very smart kittens. You will quickly realize that you can teach him several things. Some will even use clicker.

    e) Before each meal, our servals have learned to sit and this is something that I highly recommend. Remember that your cat will reach the counter easily with his front legs. The first thing to teach him is to come to the call. Use the same gaga tone "kitty pussy kitty" and as soon as he arrives, give him his meal. This could save his life if he ever managed to escape and escape. You're likely to get him back with that same "kitty minx kitty" or whatever you call it. You can use the clicker if you prefer but this sound will be associated with the meal time and it is very important for your kitten.

  • 9) THE HARNESS

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    Your kitten has worn a harness here. We suggest wearing the harness regularly not to say 24/7. The harness is very handy for strolling outside or even catching your little explorer if he wants to go outside without you.

    It's a very fast way to catch him up. But it's very embarrassing if you want to bring your twink for a walk and as soon as he knows he has a harness he paralyzes and lies on his side because he is not used to it.

    When you install the harness start with the collar. It must be tight enough for security, but not too much either. You must be able to put a finger between the collar and the skin. Then you just have to click the straps on the rest of her body and attach a leash. You are now ready for a walk.

  • 10) Conclusion

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    I have gathered here the most frequently asked questions by my clients, but you may have other questions.

    Do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions about your new adoption. My passion goes far beyond selling my babies. It is specially to see them grow up happy that fills me with happiness.

  • You can download this guide by clicking here